Camino Del Norte is now in the rear view mirror and I am currently walking the Finisterre and Muxia Camino. I have chosen to walk short stages to soak in my last week. I’m equally ready for it to be over and not ready!
Last night I buried my brother’s ashes at the Cape Finisterre Lighthouse, it was a surreal moment but it worked out perfectly. The next few days are selfishly mine and I plan to walk alone to enjoy the peace. I know when I return to the US I have difficult stuff to deal with.
Next Thursday I fly to Valencia to visit friends and hang out at their bar “Bar Amigos”! Chris and his husband Lloyd are well known… when they decided to take the gamble of leaving their successful jobs in the UK and open a bar in Oliva, Spain the whole process was documented on a show called “A New Life In The Sun”. People visit Bar Amigos just to meet them! I have known Chris for over 30 years and we have had some fun during that time. The most memorable was going to the premier of Madonna’s movie Evita and finding ourselves with VIP access and mingling with top notch celebrities. Chris is easy to love, he is a beautiful human who exudes light and happiness, Lloyd is charismatic, has a sharp wit and is a fantastic cook, they are the perfect combo!
Santiago to Negreira (15 miles)
It was a drizzly day and I was surprised by the amount of pilgrims as it was my understanding hardly anyone walked this route. I ended up walking with a drummer from a 90s “shoegaze band” (I’m not sure what that is?!). At the hostel I met up with Nicolas and Christine who were part of my original Camino family. We went out for dinner, sadly it was the last time I would see Christine. The hostel was packed so clearly this Camino has become more popular!
Negreira to Santa Marina (14.1 miles)
Today Nicolas and I walked together, it was to be our last time. Nicolas was the first pilgrim I met when starting out on the Norte and we have traveled many kilometers together. It rained all day and we were completely drenched when we arrived at the hostel. Everyone had lined up to use the dryer which gave us the opportunity to dry our clothes on the radiators which nobody else noticed were warm, it was perfect!
Santa Marino to Logoso (10.8 miles)
I sadly said my goodbye to Nicolas. I took my time leaving and shortly after decided to stop for a Menu Del Dia meal, I’m the only pilgrim that has actually gained weight on this Camino! The hostel was lovely with privacy Curtains on the beds and towels, it’s the little things that make a big difference at these hostels!
Logoso to O’Vilar (13.3 miles)
I woke up grumpy that everyone was up and loud until I realized the time was 8:15am.. I had slept-in after having the best night’s sleep!! The day started out mostly foggy so not much to see but the visibility improved as the day went on. My hostel was again amazing but unfortunately the person sharing a room with me snored so loudly and my earplugs were of no help, I have never heard anyone snore like that!
O’Vilar to Finisterre (9.2 miles)
I woke up to wind and rain. My jacket is too big, missing a popper along with the cinch for the hood so I am now walking around with a clothes peg securing it! Today I understandably thought a lot about my brother, it’s surreal knowing he walked the same paths. I walked through a small village where a man was selling goods made from shells. I purchased a shell to use for my brothers memorial and the guy poured me a shot of some kind of strong sweet liquid that warmed me up… Keith would have approved! I took a detour to a small beach and sat thinking about Keith’s journey when he set sail solo from the UK to America, I’m still in awe. I eventually made it to cape Finisterre where I checked into the hotel that is a stones throw from the lighthouse. I buried Keith’s ashes and created a little memorial, it was perfect and I know he is smiling down. I had an ocean view dinner where I toasted Keith while watching the strobe of the lighthouse, it was perfect!
