When I picture a pilgrim, I think of an old man hunched over with a stick! I feel very authentic as I am the female version of that picture. I am a self proclaimed “Pilgrimess”!
The first 10 days of my camino were absolutely fantastic, dare I say heavenly. The mornings were spent hiking and the afternoons were filled with beach time, great conversations, tasty meals and wine. Sadly the subsequent 10 days have been very challenging, I’ve been dealing with a great amount of knee pain and hobbling so slowly that by the time I arrive in town everything has closed and I am immobile!
True to regular life the Camino is presenting challenges. The Camino has (so far) validated I am a resilient, mentally strong, fighter who will not give up on something worthwhile. I have typically put others before myself which I believe is a positive trait but often it is to my detriment. It is clear I need to start putting myself first in some situations…. similar to the safety announcement on an airplane where they tell parents to put their oxygen mask on before helping their children. It is essential I heal myself properly and not worry about deadlines or commitments. Swallowing some humble pie I am learning I need to stop pushing myself to the extreme, in my younger days my body was far more forgiving. It’s time to accept that those days are over and I no longer need to prove to myself that I am a beast. I will still be able to do more pull ups than most people but I don’t need to do an extra five to prove a point. Time to rein it in!
This Camino might take slightly longer than I had anticipated and I may have to skip a couple of stages. Many (if not most) pilgrims walk part way with many only completing 100 km which is the minimum to receive a Compostela (certificate of completion). I have already walked five times that amount and I still plan to walk most of the way to Finnistaire .. I am after all a true Pilgrimess!
Santander to Santallina Del Mar (15.3 miles)
For this stage I took the advice from a fellow pilgrim to take the train partway as the first section of the stage is through an industrial area. At first I felt I was cheating but that emotion quickly disappeared when I realized the train was packed with Pilgrims doing the same! Much of the trail was along roads but a short distance was through countryside offering ocean views. Compared to previous stages it wasn’t particularly noteworthy. Arriving in Santillana Del Mar is noteworthy. It is a beautiful town with an aura of peacefulness and calm, the cobblestoned streets are narrow and full of small restaurants, shops and artist studios. It is known as one of the most beautiful towns in Spain and it is not surprising that many movies have been filmed here. My pictures do not do the place justice and sadly I did not get to explore as my knee was not cooperating. I do recommend a google search and hopefully an opportunity to visit. I stayed at a place that many pilgrims refer to as a convent.. It is not a convent. Years ago it was a monastery and then closed for a period of time before reopening as a nonprofit to help underprivileged people. Nuns and volunteers run the program and in the evening the nuns perform a service for those who want to attend. The building and the grounds are beautiful. Each bedroom has two beds with a sink, there is a large laundry facility and a full kitchen along with multiple areas to relax. They also serve a wonderful dinner and breakfast. It was a hard place to leave.
Santillana Del Mar – Comillas (17.9 miles)
Sadly and embarrassingly I do not remember much of this day due to my pain medicated state! I do remember the walk being beautiful with more coastal views and walking along a small sandy cove. The villages were spotless with manicured gardens and the weather was perfect, 70 degrees and sunny. With my new limp my body was starting to struggle.., argh
Comillas – Colombres (22.4 miles)
The first part of this stage was lovely and I weaved country roads and pathways followed by a long stretch along the coastline where I passed many surf breaks. It was frustrating not to be able to jump in the water. This is clearly a surf mecca with many accessible campgrounds, I definitely plan on coming back here sometime. The second half of the trail was not great as it was along roads with no sidewalk. Drivers here either do not like pilgrims or do not respect personal space, I have gotten scared multiple times as cars do not slow down or move over, the roads are also narrow. Today I walked 29 km and the last 5 km were tough due to my knee. To date I have walked through Basque region, Cantabria region and now in Asturias region, I am making great progress despite my slow walking!
Colombres – Llanes (18.3 miles)
Walking with a limp is now having an effect on the rest of my lower body. I have been impressed with how my good knee has been compensating for my bad knee, but it is now telling me “enough”. The first part of this walk was along a hilly meadow above a cliff and typically this is my most desired terrain but walking with one leg straight I found myself tripping and struggling over wooden “stiles”. The coastal views were amazing and I crossed rivers and spotted the most beautiful and what seemed to be private beach. The landscape along the Camino del Norte does not disappoint. Sadly, some of the Albergues do disappoint as my accommodation in Colombres and the place here in Llanes are pretty dismal. The range for albergue accommodation is vast, some amazing and some questionable. Ironically the donation places have so far been the best!
I have reached day 20 and I am sadly taking another break. A doctor in Llanes has confirmed my diagnosis and suggested I stay here for three days to rest up my knee. If that does not work, I will consider a steroid shot. Fingers crossed and positive thoughts and in the meantime I will enjoy the very inexpensive Spanish wine!