WOW, where did the time go? I am a little behind updating this blog and currently en-route to Finisterre, so I will be brief!
I obtained my Compostela (my certificate of completion) first thing Monday morning and unknown to me the first 10 pilgrims receive a lunch at a very high end hotel in Santiago. Sadly I wanted to start my journey to Finisterre so I gifted it to one unsuspecting and very lucky pilgrim! Hand written in Latin on my compostela are the words “dedicated to Keith Wray”, I also received my certificate of distance traveled (872km), these are nice mementos and I am glad I decided to obtain them.
Not carrying my backpack has been a game changer for my knees. They are still sore but I can tell they are thanking me for my decision to transport my backpack. I should have done this weeks ago, my stubbornness got the better of me.. perhaps I am learning some valuable lessons on this Camino?!
Vilalba to Sobrado Dos Moxes (21.8 miles)
After a few Kilometers the trail came to a T junction and I was offered two options to continue on my journey. The first one follows the original Camino route and goes through small villages with accommodation and restaurants the second option has no services. I flipped a coin and the second option was decided. The trail was mainly on roads and I saw very few cars and only one other pilgrim so I guess it’s not a popular route. 31km later I reached Sobrado Dos Moxes that houses a huge monastery. The building is impressive with gothic type architecture but I found it a little creepy. Pilgrims have the option to stay here but I heard the check-in process can take hours so I opted for a hostel.
Sobrado Dos Moxes – Arzúa (14.7 miles)
This morning I was instantly shocked by how cold it was. I am not prepared for cold weather and my phone registered 39 degrees. My hands froze within minutes and started to hurt so I ended up using a pair of socks as gloves and I walked shivering for a couple of hours! Eventually the sun shone and I thawed out while once again hiking through farmland and forrests. During this stage the Camino Norte joins the Francis and I found myself in a sea of pilgrims entering the town of Arzua.
Arzua to Lavacolla (18.7 miles)
Today I swallowed more humble pie and decided to transport my backpack on to the next hostel rather than carrying it. After hearing about another pilgrim’s ordeal with an ankle injury and having found a waist pack in the lost and found to carry valuables etc, I felt it was a sign…. the Camino had provided. I walked with the masses through more farmland but the stark difference from before was there were places to eat every few kilometers, there is no excuse to go hungry here! As the pilgrims thinned out I found myself walking through what felt like a magical forest, all the trees were drenched in moss and it would be a fitting home for elves and goblins, this was one of my favorite parts of the Camino. I stayed in a beautiful hostel which was an ancient building that had been updated with all the modern amenities. So cool!
Lovacollo – Santiago (12.9 miles)
During today’s short walk I found myself slowing down and taking the opportunity to stop at every cafe. Even though Santiago is not my ending point it is clear I am entering the last phase. Most of the walk was along city streets and not all that noteworthy but I was in no hurry to reach my destination.
Getting closer to the cathedral you are greeted with cobblestone streets and beautiful old buildings. You know you have arrived when you hear the bagpipe player while entering an arch that leads you to the cathedral. Tour groups and pilgrims are everywhere in varying states of joy, sadness, exhaustion and perhaps relief. The cathedral is magnificent and has to be seen in person to fully appreciate and absorb its magnitude! Beautiful cafes, restaurants and shops line the narrow cobblestoned streets around the perimeter of the cathedral, it’s very quaint and lovely to stroll around. I joined some of my original pilgrim family and attended the pilgrim service at the cathedral which was a great way to end this stage.
